Copius
Tara no me, drawn for Copius

Tara no me

Pousse d’aralia

Latin nameAralia elata
FamilyVegetables
OriginJapanese mountain woodland
Season (France)March – May
FlavourBitter · Resinous · Earthy
Typical price (France)80–150 €/kg

What it is

It is the terminal bud of a thorny tree and each shoot carries exactly one: take it and the tree pushes a second, take that one too and the branch dies. Japanese foragers hold to a one-bud rule for exactly that reason, and the commercial crop now comes mostly from cut branches forced in water sheds through the winter.

In the kitchen

Trim only the hard brown collar at the base and keep the bud whole; batter one side only so the leaves stay visible, and fry at 170°C for ninety seconds. Salt, not tentsuyu — the dipping sauce drowns the bitterness that is the entire reason to eat it.

Goes with

Sunflower oil Salt Sudachi Miso Walnut Soy sauce

Same species

Udo

In season alongside

Bagnoli truffle Alexanders Artichoke Bog myrtle Camus de Bretagne artichoke Dandelion greens

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