Selles-sur-Cher

Selles-sur-Cher

What it is

Farm wives made it for the house; from the end of the nineteenth century the coquetiers who collected eggs and poultry took the cheeses too and shipped them from the railway station at Selles-sur-Cher, which is how a cheese from a whole district ended up with one town's name. The black coat was salted ash from vine prunings — a drying agent long before it was a look.

In the kitchen

Its lactic set is short, so it stays moist and mild: this is the goat cheese to crumble raw into a salad rather than grill. Choose one with a matte, even ash coat — shiny or cracked means it has been sweating.

Goes with

Walnut Lamb’s lettuce Radish Apple Walnut oil Chives Honey Sorrel

In season alongside

Chabichou du Poitou Rampion Rocamadour Valençay Pauillac lamb Bintje potato

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