Reinette grise du Canada apple

Pomme reinette grise du Canada

What it is

Described in France in 1771 and grown around Paris from the early nineteenth century, the variety has no documented tie to Canada whatever — the name appears to have been borrowed to make a plain russet sound like an import. Its dry, granular flesh is the whole point: where a juicier apple collapses into sauce, this one concentrates and keeps its walls.

In the kitchen

Raw it is dull and leathery; give it heat. For a tart, slice it thin and lay it straight on the pastry without pre-cooking — it holds too little water to need it, and a knob of butter with a spoonful of sugar per apple is the whole dressing.

Goes with

Butter Calvados Cinnamon Crème fraîche Vanilla Walnut White sugar

Same species

Apple Calvados Mostarda di Mantova Rapid-set apple pectin Chantecler apple

In season alongside

Lingonberry Blackberry Blood orange Cranberry Rosehip Damson

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