Red scorpionfish (chapon) ◆

Chapon (rascasse rouge)

What it is

The chapon is the same family as the little soup rascasse, but it lives deeper, reaches three kilos and is bought whole to hold the centre of a table rather than to be sieved out of a broth. Its dorsal spines stay venomous for hours after death, which is why fishmongers clip them at the stall.

In the kitchen

The head is a third of the weight and most of the flavour, so cook it on the bone — steamed, or roasted at 180 °C, allowing 25 minutes per kilo. The gelatinous head skin thickens the pan juices on its own: spoon them back over rather than straining them.

Goes with

Saffron Olive oil Wild fennel fronds Tomato Garlic Potato Espelette pepper

Same species

Brown scorpionfish

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