Copius
Nigari, drawn for Copius

Nigari

Nigari

Latin nameMagnesii chloridum
FamilyTexture agents
OriginJapanese salt pans
Season (France)All year
FlavourBitter · Briny · Marine
Typical price (France)8–20 €/kg

What it is

Nigari is what is left when seawater has given up its salt: a magnesium-heavy bittern whose name comes straight from nigai, bitter. Tofu makers were buying the salt trade's waste long before anyone had written down what magnesium chloride does to soy protein.

In the kitchen

About 2.5 g per litre of soy milk, dissolved in a little water and added at 75 C in three goes, with one slow stroke of the paddle between each. Tip it in at once and you get a coarse, grainy curd and a cloudy whey.

Goes with

Soybean Silken tofu (kinugoshi) Yuba Negi Ginger Kombu Katsuobushi (dried bonito) Soy sauce

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