Mostarda di Mantova ✦

Mostarda de Mantoue

What it is

Mantuan mostarda is built on a single fruit — most often the campanina, a small hard local apple — cooked down to a dense purée instead of being kept as whole candied pieces the way Cremona keeps them. The Gonzaga court had its apothecaries make it, which is why the heat comes from essence of mustard, a pharmacy ingredient, and not from the seed.

In the kitchen

Mustard essence is volatile: stir it in off the heat and keep the jar sealed, or the pungency is gone within a month. For tortelli di zucca, reckon one part mostarda to five parts cooked squash pulp, with as much crushed amaretti again as mostarda.

Goes with

Parmesan Pumpkin Mustard Gorgonzola piccante Grana Padano Apple Quince Pork

Same species

Apple Calvados Rapid-set apple pectin Chantecler apple Reinette grise du Canada apple

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