Mortadella

mortadelle

What it is

The likelier of the two etymologies goes back to farcimen myrtatum, a Roman sausage seasoned with myrtle berries and mentioned by Varro and Pliny; the other points to the mortarium, the mortar the meat was pounded in. Either way the cubes of neck fat are still cut by hand, and the whole piece steam-cooks for hours in dry-air ovens before it is ever sliced.

In the kitchen

Have it cut at the counter and eat it the same day: sliced thin, the fat cubes oxidise within hours and the perfume goes flat. Warm the slices briefly and it becomes another thing entirely.

Goes with

Pistachio Parmesan Olive oil Fig Ricotta Black pepper Semi-dried tomato

Same species

Andouillette Boudin blanc Natural casings Caul fat Chorizo Ciauscolo

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