Kuchiko (dried sea cucumber ovaries) ✦ ◆

Kuchiko

What it is

Dried flat on racks, the ovaries fan out into a triangle that Noto fishermen named bachiko, after the plectrum of a shamisen. It takes the ovaries of dozens of animals to build a single sheet, which is why it is sold by the gram and why it exists only in winter.

In the kitchen

Wave it over a flame for a few seconds until it perfumes and turns slightly translucent, then tear it rather than cut it. Warm sake poured over a toasted piece makes kuchiko-zake, and the drink is as much the point as the ingredient.

Goes with

Junmai sake Rice Nori Yuzu Kombu Daikon

Same species

Sea cucumber Konowata

In season alongside

Kazunoko Mekabu Mussel Oyster Abalone Belon flat oyster

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