Surf clam

Hokkigai (mactre)

What it is

Its official Japanese name is ubagai, old-woman clam, after the pallor of the shell; the northern name hokki that fishmongers actually use comes from the Ainu. The foot is charcoal black inside the shell and turns scarlet the instant it meets hot water, which is why a sushi counter serves it as a blanched slice rather than a raw one.

In the kitchen

Three seconds in boiling water, then straight into iced water: the colour turns and the flesh stays crunchy. Held for ten it toughens and the red bleeds pale, and nothing brings either back.

Goes with

Rice vinegar Wasabi Soy sauce Shiso Sudachi Cucumber Rice Kombu

In season alongside

Clam Mantis shrimp Razor clam Spider crab Stone crab claw Abalone

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