Copius
Kinkan (unlaid egg yolks), drawn for Copius

Kinkan (unlaid egg yolks)

Kinkan (œufs non pondus)

Latin nameGallus gallus (ovum immaturum)
FamilyCuts of meat
OriginJapanese yakitori counters
Season (France)All year
FlavourRich · Creamy · Umami
Typical price (France)15–30 €/kg

What it is

They are named after the kumquat — kinkan — because that is what a chain of unlaid yolks looks like, graded from pea to full size inside the hen. A skewer that keeps a yolk attached to its length of oviduct is called chōchin, a paper lantern, and there are only a handful in any bird.

In the kitchen

Grill them at the edge of the coals and turn them constantly — high heat splits the membrane and the yolk is gone in a second. They want salt only; a sweet tare buries a richness already beyond any laid yolk.

Goes with

Salt Hon-mirin Koikuchi shoyu Sansho pepper Negi Yuzu kosho

Same species

Egg white powder (albumin) Chicken tail (bonjiri) Bresse chicken Capon Chicken Rooster

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