Horseradish

Raifort

What it is

Its heat goes up the nose rather than onto the tongue, because the compound released is volatile — it evaporates and hits the sinuses instead of the taste buds. Alsace grows most of France's crop and grates it into cream for boiled beef.

In the kitchen

Add vinegar within three minutes of grating to lock the heat in. Left alone it keeps building, then collapses to bitterness.

Goes with

Beef Cream Beetroot White wine vinegar Salmon Potato Apple Mustard

Also used with

Smoked eel Bavarian sweet mustard Limousin beef Crapaudine beetroot Smoked sturgeon Salt-fermented dill cucumber

In season alongside

Bagnoli truffle Black radish Mustard greens Acorn Bianchetto truffle Broccoli

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