Giant puffball ✦

Vesse-de-loup géante

What it is

A large one holds something on the order of seven trillion spores, which is exactly why its edible window is so short: the flesh is food while it is pure white and becomes a bag of powder as soon as they ripen. No gills, no stem, no cap — a uniform white block, which is why it is cut into steaks and handled as butchery rather than as mushroom.

In the kitchen

Cut it in half before you buy it or carry it home: any yellow, olive or brown inside means the spores have started and the whole thing is finished. Slice it two centimetres thick, egg-and-breadcrumb it and fry — it is a sponge, so a wet pan gives you a wet slice.

Goes with

Butter Garlic Parsley Egg Parmesan Black pepper

In season alongside

Amethyst deceiver Hind Roe deer Fallow deer Young wild boar Snail eggs

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