Cauliflower mushroom ✦

Clavaire crépue

What it is

It is not a cluster of caps but a single fungus folded into hundreds of brittle ribbons, growing out of the roots of a pine it is slowly rotting from below. One specimen can weigh several kilos, and it is among the few wild mushrooms whose texture survives an hour of cooking: the ribbons stay springy where a cap would collapse.

In the kitchen

Cleaning is the whole job: break it into lobes and swish each one in a bowl of water, because pine needles lodge deep in the folds where no brush reaches. Blanch two minutes and braise — a quick sauté leaves it squeaky.

Goes with

Butter Cream Thyme Chicken Leek Pine nut

In season alongside

Bintje potato Bronte pistachio Crowberry Cauliflower Celeriac Cervione hazelnut

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