Copius
Gagome kombu, drawn for Copius

Gagome kombu ✦

Kombu gagome

Latin nameSaccharina sculpera
FamilySeaweed
OriginHakodate, Hokkaido
Season (France)July – September
FlavourMarine · Mild · Umami
Typical price (France)120–220 €/kg

What it is

Gagome names the basket-weave: the blade is embossed all over with a lattice of pits, which is how it is told from every other kelp growing on the same rocks. It holds to a short stretch of sea around Hakodate and almost nowhere else, and it is gathered for the slime rather than in spite of it.

In the kitchen

Shred it fine and steep in cold water for ten minutes; the liquid thickens on its own and binds a dressing with no starch at all. Keep it out of a clear soup — it will never give a transparent dashi.

Goes with

Natto Okra Rice Soy sauce Cucumber Gilt-head bream Tuna Nagaimo (Chinese yam)

Same species

Kombu Royal kombu Ma-kombu Tororo kombu

In season alongside

Japanese abalone Oyster mushroom Albacore Bay bolete Bonito (katsuo) Chicken of the woods

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