Dulse

Dulse

What it is

Icelanders call it söl and gathered it under written law: the medieval codes set out who could take it from which shore, which is unusual treatment for a plant. In 2015 a strain bred at Oregon State drew headlines for frying up tasting of bacon — the smoke note is in the leaf itself, and it survives the pan where every other seaweed flavour collapses.

In the kitchen

Fry it twenty to thirty seconds in a film of oil and no longer; past that it scorches and goes acrid. Crumbled into bread dough it works at about 2 % of the flour weight — enough to season, not enough to grey the crumb.

Goes with

Butter Oats Potato Scallop Oyster Cream Egg Lemon

In season alongside

Belon flat oyster Brown shrimp Dog cockle Japanese abalone Clam Lobster coral

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