Prickly pear

Figue de Barbarie

What it is

The cactus is Mexican, host to the cochineal insect that supplied Europe's scarlet for three centuries, and it is the same plant the eagle stands on in the national arms. It travelled to the Barbary coast on Spanish ships and picked up its French name there, which is why nothing about it is either fig or African.

In the kitchen

Handle it with gloves or a folded towel: the hair-fine glochids lodge in the skin and are far worse than the visible spines. Top and tail it, slit the skin lengthways and peel it back — the seeds are as hard as gravel, so sieve the flesh for anything beyond eating it out of hand.

Goes with

Lime Mint Yogurt Honey Chili pepper Cucumber Watermelon Cilantro / Coriander

Same species

Nopal

In season alongside

Nashi pear Bell pepper Bettarazuke Cévennes sweet onion Chioggia beetroot Green bean

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