Smoked sturgeon ◆

Esturgeon fumé

What it is

A caviar farm kills a fish for a kilo or two of roe and is left with twenty kilos of flesh, which is how smoked sturgeon became a product rather than a waste stream. New York’s appetizing counters were selling it long before that — cut as thin as smoked salmon and priced above it.

In the kitchen

Slice it thick, three or four millimetres: the flesh has almost no flake and a thin slice simply falls apart. Horseradish cream and rye rather than lemon, which strips out the nutty fat.

Goes with

Horseradish Rye berries Crème fraîche Dill Cucumber Potato Black pepper

Same species

Caviar Baerii caviar White sturgeon caviar Adriatic sturgeon caviar Osetra caviar Pressed caviar

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