Emmentaler

Emmental suisse (Emmentaler AOP)

What it is

The holes are carbon dioxide from propionic bacteria, but the gas needs something to gather around, and an Agroscope study in 2015 showed that something is microscopic hay dust falling into the milk at milking. As open byres gave way to sealed machines the dust went, and Swiss wheels started coming out too smooth.

In the kitchen

It melts long and stringy rather than smooth — right for fondue and gratins, wrong for a sauce. Grate it cold, and cut it with a third of Gruyère when the mixture has to stay fluid.

Goes with

Potato White wine vinegar Gruyère Kirsch Garlic Onion Nutmeg T65 bread flour

Also used with

Sodium citrate Paris cooked ham

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