Cicerchia ✦

Gesse (pois carré)

What it is

Cicerchia carries a neurotoxin, β-ODAP, that caused outbreaks of lathyrism in Europe whenever it became the only thing left to eat — and it became that often, because the plant yields through drought and flood alike. Serra de' Conti in the Marche keeps a low-toxin local variety alive as a Slow Food presidium, sown now by choice rather than by desperation.

In the kitchen

Soak 12 to 24 hours through three changes of water and throw every soak away, then simmer 90 minutes — the water carries off the toxin and the bitterness together. It never firms up the way chickpeas do: expect a loose creamy mass, and dress it while warm.

Goes with

Rosemary Olive oil Garlic Sage Chestnut Guanciale Bay leaf Pecorino Romano

Same species

Santorini fava

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