Charolais ✦

Charolais

What it is

At 250 to 310 grams it weighs several times an ordinary goat cheese — a barrel taller than it is wide, six and a half centimetres across and seven and a half high. The mass is the point: it dries so slowly from the outside that the centre is still dense and almost fudgy when the rind has already gone blue-grey.

In the kitchen

Cut it in wedges from the top down, like a small tomme, never in discs. Young it wants nothing; past two months, shave it over hot potatoes and let the heat do the work.

Goes with

Potato Walnut Honey Apple Rye berries Shallot Thyme Butter

In season alongside

Antep pistachio Bintje potato Cauliflower Celeriac Charcoal burner Eggplant

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