Caerphilly ✦

Caerphilly

What it is

The story goes that it was made for the collieries — salt and moisture to replace what a shift underground took out, and a rind thick enough to hold in a coal-black hand. The Ministry of Food stopped it during the war in favour of national Cheddar, and it came back through Somerset dairies that had taken it up in the 1920s.

In the kitchen

It is two cheeses in one wedge: a crumbly lemony core and a soft breaking-down band under the rind. Take it out of the fridge an hour ahead, or the outer band stays waxy and only the core comes through.

Goes with

Apple Leek Chives Butter Onion Cider vinegar Oats Mustard

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