Bonito (katsuo)

Bonite à ventre rayé

What it is

Edo made a cult of the first bonito of the year and paid absurd sums for it - the season's first fish were priced like jewellery, and households are recorded pawning goods to buy one. Tosa sears it over burning rice straw, which flares hot enough to colour the skin in seconds without cooking the red flesh underneath.

In the kitchen

Tataki wants the fiercest heat you have, then ice water at once, then a thorough drying - leave it wet and the surface goes on cooking inward. Serve it with grated garlic and ginger rather than soy alone; the flesh is strong enough to need them.

Goes with

Garlic Ginger Ponzu Spring onion Myoga Shiso Soy sauce Sudachi

Same species

Honkarebushi Katsuobushi (dried bonito) Shutō (fermented bonito viscera)

Also used with

Hakurei turnip

In season alongside

Mackerel Tuna Allis shad Lamb neck European conger Lobster coral

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