Bitter melon

Margose

What it is

The bitterness comes from momordicin and is the reason the plant is grown at all — Okinawan gōyā champurū, Indian karela and Cantonese stuffed rings all exist to carry it. Left to ripen the fruit turns orange, splits open and shows scarlet arils that are frankly sweet, which is why it is always picked green.

In the kitchen

Halve, scrape out the seeds and the spongy core — the harshest part — then slice, salt at about a tablespoon per large melon, wait twenty minutes and press dry. That takes the edge off without removing the point of it.

Goes with

Black bean Egg Pork Garlic Douchi Turmeric Chili pepper Ginger

In season alongside

Sweetfish (ayu) Frisée Bell pepper Water pepper (tade / benitade) Borage Broccoli

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