Albacore

Germon (thon blanc)

What it is

Its Latin name means long wing: the pectoral fins reach back past the anal fin, further than on any other tuna, and that single mark is what keeps it out of the bluefin bin. Basque boats still take it on pole and line, one fish at a time, and the tins made from it are sold as bonito del norte - which is not a bonito at all.

In the kitchen

The loin goes from raw to dry between one turn and the next: thirty seconds a side on a fierce pan and a cool centre, or nothing. In a marmitako it goes in off the heat, once the potatoes are already done.

Goes with

Piquillo pepper Tomato Espelette pepper Potato Olive oil Onion Garlic Bay leaf

Same species

Maguro-bushi Mojama Tuna bottarga Tuna Tuna belly (toro) Ventresca

In season alongside

Allis shad Brill Arctic char Cod European conger Crayfish

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