Akazu

Akazu (vinaigre rouge japonais)

What it is

In 1804 Matazaemon Nakano, founder of the house that became Mizkan, tasted the fast sushi of Edo and worked out that vinegar from aged sake lees would suit it better, and cost far less, than rice vinegar that ordinary people could not afford. He brewed it in Handa and shipped it to Edo, and the amber rice of Edomae sushi descends directly from that decision.

In the kitchen

Cut the sugar in your sushi vinegar by at least half — the aged lees already read sweet and heavy with umami, and the usual rice-vinegar ratio makes the shari cloying. Expect the rice to turn amber; that colour is the point, not a fault.

Goes with

Rice Tuna Kombu Wasabi Saltwater conger (anago) Gilt-head bream

Same species

Arborio rice Rice paper (bánh tráng) Basmati rice Black glutinous rice Black rice Bomba rice

Something wrong here, or missing? Tell us