Agrumato lemon oil ◆

Huile d’olive au citron

What it is

The technique began as housekeeping: at the end of the campaign, Abruzzese millers ran citrus through the press to clean it and kept the perfumed oil for the family. Francesco Ricci of Lanciano coined the word agrumato for it in the 1980s and registered it, so the name on most bottles is a trademark rather than a method.

In the kitchen

Never heat it: the citrus essences that justify the price are gone at frying temperature. Buy the smallest bottle and finish it within three months of opening, because crushed peel oxidises far faster than plain olive oil.

Goes with

Scallop Asparagus Burrata Sea bass Artichoke Strawberry

Same species

Olive Cracked olive of the Vallée des Baux Castelvetrano olive Bella di Cerignola olive Gaeta olive Gordal olive

In season alongside

Chile piquín Grapefruit Mandarin

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