Copius

The dish that changed something · c. 1815

Charlotte russe

Marie-Antoine Carême · 1784–1833 · Paris — Talleyrand, later foreign courts

A cold dessert set in a mould and turned out whole. Carême built desserts the way he drew buildings, and this one proved a sweet course could hold a shape of its own on the table rather than arriving as a heap.

Why it works

The bavaroise carries just enough gelatine to hold a wall and not enough to bounce; the biscuit lining drinks the moisture that would otherwise weep out and slacken the shape.

What is in it

Cream Vanilla Egg Leaf gelatine

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