Wholegrain mustard

Moutarde à l’ancienne

What it is

Mustard has no heat until it is broken: crushing the seed brings an enzyme to the compounds beside it, and the pungency builds in water over about ten minutes, then fades. Leaving the seed cracked rather than milled slows all of that down, which is why à l'ancienne is gentler than a Dijon made from the same batch of seed.

In the kitchen

Add it off the heat: boiling drives the pungency off within a minute and leaves a dull, faintly bitter seed. For a vinaigrette that holds, emulsify with a teaspoon of smooth Dijon and use the grain purely for texture.

Goes with

Pork Rabbit Cream Leek Morteau sausage Honey Cider vinegar Chicken

Same species

Baek-kimchi Broccoli Brussels sprout Cabbage Cauliflower Cavolo nero

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