Shirako ✦

Shirako (laitance de morue)

What it is

Cod milt, sold only while the fish is in spawning condition — roughly November to February. Hokkaido calls it tachi, Kyoto calls it kumoko, the cloud child, for the folded white shape.

In the kitchen

Blanch it thirty seconds in salted water with a splash of sake before anything else: the membrane firms so the lobes hold together, and the faint metallic edge goes. Then ponzu, or a hot grill with salt — a long cook curdles it.

Goes with

Ponzu Yuzu Daikon Negi Junmai sake Chives Shiso

Same species

Cod Cod liver Hwangtae (freeze-dried pollack) Cod tongues Mentaiko Salt cod

In season alongside

Fugu shirako Herring milt Northern sweet shrimp Nantucket bay scallop Ankimo Splendid alfonsino (kinmedai)

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