Sea arrowgrass ✦

Troscart maritime

What it is

Crush the pale base of a leaf and it gives off coriander so exactly that saltmarsh foragers call it coriander grass. The resemblance stops at the smell: this is a relative of the rushes, and it builds cyanogenic glycosides in the green blade, most of all when drought or grazing has stressed it.

In the kitchen

Use only the white base of the leaf, two centimetres or so, raw and in small amounts — the dark green blade is where the cyanogenic compounds sit. Anyone not certain of the identification should reach for coriander instead.

Goes with

Scallop Clam Langoustine Lime Cucumber Olive oil

In season alongside

Salt marsh lamb Basil Cilantro / Coriander Grayling Ice plant Linden honey

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