Santorini fava ✦

Fava de Santorin

What it is

Despite the name it is neither a broad bean nor a split pea but a grass pea, Lathyrus clymenum, and carbonised seeds of that exact species were excavated from the Bronze Age town at Akrotiri — the same crop on the same island before the eruption. It is still grown without irrigation, rooted in volcanic ash that holds the night humidity the plants live on.

In the kitchen

One part fava to three of water with an onion in the pot, forty to sixty minutes; it collapses by itself. Finish it with a whisk, never a blender — blended it goes to glue — and keep the oil, lemon and raw onion for the table.

Goes with

Olive oil Lemon Red onion Capers Oregano Octopus Dill

Same species

Cicerchia

In season alongside

Earth chestnut Artichoke Blonde morel Bronze bolete Caesar’s mushroom Camus de Bretagne artichoke

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