Ratte potato

Pomme de terre ratte

What it is

La Ratte dates from 1872 and had nearly disappeared by the 1930s through seed degeneration before French growers rebuilt the stock. Its density is the point: low-water, high-starch flesh that absorbs an absurd quantity of fat, which is why Robuchon built his purée on it at a restaurant ratio of two parts potato to one part butter.

In the kitchen

Cook them in their skins from cold salted water brought up slowly, then peel hot and pass them through a drum sieve, never a blender: a blade tears the starch and turns the purée to glue. Add the butter cold, in cubes, off the heat.

Goes with

Butter Cream Chives Black truffle Fleur de sel de Guérande Olive oil Parsley

Same species

Bintje potato Black Krim tomato Bonnotte de Noirmoutier Chuño Datterino tomato Eggplant

Also used with

Limousin beef Kaluga caviar Saint-Marcellin

In season alongside

Zolfino bean Acorn Antep pistachio Artichoke Blonde morel Borlotti bean

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