Mont-Saint-Michel salt marsh lamb

Prés-salés du Mont-Saint-Michel

What it is

Maritime grazing must last at least 70 days and cover at least half the lamb's life, on the herbus of the bay and the Cotentin havens, where the tide lays down tangue, a very fine, limy silt. The grass there, puccinellia, sea arrowgrass and sea purslane, is sparse, so the lambs walk far for it: the specification credits that for the lean build and deep colour of the meat, and requires four full days of maturation on the bone before sale.

In the kitchen

Each carcass is ink-stamped 'Prés-salés MSM' on the shoulder, ribs and leg, and the label gives the slaughter date: check both. The rack and leg need little more than salt, a hot oven and a long rest; the shoulder, bone in, braises slowly with flageolets.

Goes with

Flageolet Samphire Sea purslane Garlic Thyme Rosemary Butter Potato

Same species

Pauillac lamb Salt marsh lamb Sisteron lamb Lamb fries Barèges-Gavarnie mutton Lamb brain

In season alongside

Bay of Somme salt marsh lamb Abalone Ark shell Woodcock Bonito (katsuo) Bronte pistachio

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