Pochas ✦

Pochas (haricots demi-secs de Navarre)

What it is

A pocha is not a variety but a moment: the same white bean picked once the pod has gone pale and papery but before the seed inside has given up its water. The window runs a few weeks in late summer, which is why a bean that cooks in half an hour supports an entire tinned and frozen trade.

In the kitchen

No soaking, and no acid until the end: start them cold with a whole onion and a green pepper, thirty to forty minutes at a tremble, salt off the heat. Tomato or vinegar added early sets the skins hard and no amount of extra time softens them again.

Goes with

Quail Chorizo Piquillo pepper Green bean Onion Olive oil Garlic Clam

Same species

Ayocote bean Black bean Borlotti bean Cannellini bean Coco de Paimpol Faba asturiana

In season alongside

Sweetfish (ayu) Borage Cucumber Fresh green hazelnut Lettuce Mangetout

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