Negi

Poireau japonais

What it is

Japan is split over it: eastern growers hill soil up the stem to blanch a long white shaft, while Kansai kitchens want the same species grown for its green leaves instead. The white part is white because it never saw light, not because of the variety.

In the kitchen

Char the whole white shaft black over a flame or under a grill, then peel the burnt layers away; the centre inside will have gone to jelly. Sliced raw as a garnish, soak the shreds ten minutes in iced water to lose the sulphur bite.

Goes with

Miso Soy sauce Chicken Pork Ginger Toasted sesame oil Katsuobushi (dried bonito) Hon-mirin

Same species

Arleux smoked garlic Banana shallot Black garlic Calçot Cévennes sweet onion Chives

Also used with

Abura-kasu Chicken tail (bonjiri) Japanese amberjack (buri) Fugu shirako Genmai miso Glucono delta-lactone

In season alongside

Cabbage Lautrec pink garlic Pauillac lamb Japanese tilefish (amadai) Arbutus berry Bettarazuke

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