Kokotxas (hake throat) ◆
Kokotxas (gorges de merlu)
| Latin name | Merluccius merluccius (throat) |
|---|---|
| Family | Fish & seafood |
| Origin | Basque Country |
| Season (France) | All year |
| Flavour | Delicate · Marine · Rich · Umami |
| Typical price (France) | 40–80 €/kg |
What it is
Kokotxa is the Basque name for the V of muscle under a hake's chin, and it outsells the fillet several times over — €60 to €90 a kilo against a fraction of that for the loin. It is bought for what it releases rather than what it tastes of: warmed gently in olive oil, its collagen emulsifies the oil into pil-pil, a sauce with no butter, no cream and no flour in it.
In the kitchen
Keep the oil below a simmer — around 65 °C — and swirl the pan in circles off the heat; oil that boils splits the emulsion and no whisking brings it back. Skin side down first, and let them give up their gelatine before you start swirling.
Goes with
Olive oil Garlic Guindilla Parsley Clam Pea Lemon White pepper
Same species
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