Copius
Hon-shimeji, drawn for Copius

Hon-shimeji

Hon-shimeji

Latin nameLyophyllum shimeji
FamilyMushrooms
OriginPine and oak woods, Japan
Season (France)September – November
FlavourUmami · Nutty · Sweet
Typical price (France)15–30 €/kg

What it is

A Japanese proverb ranks the mushrooms: matsutake for scent, shimeji for taste - and the shimeji it means is this wild, mycorrhizal one, not the cheap cultivated cluster. It resisted farming until the very end of the twentieth century, which is why the name on the punnet matters more here than for any other mushroom.

In the kitchen

Cook them right through - four or five minutes at least, since a quick toss leaves a faint bitterness in the stem. Never rinse them; wipe the base and pull the cluster apart by hand.

Goes with

Kombu Soy sauce Junmai sake Butter Rice Mitsuba Sudachi Chicken

In season alongside

Black Krim tomato Blue corn Borlotti bean Brussels sprout Butternut squash Caesar’s mushroom

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