Hoba leaf (magnolia leaf) ✦

Feuille de magnolia (hoba)

What it is

In the Hida mountains, where winter froze the miso and the pickles solid, a fallen magnolia leaf laid on the hearth served as the pan; that improvisation is now hoba miso, the dish Takayama is known for. The leaves are gathered brown in autumn, or picked green and cured in brine for three days before drying.

In the kitchen

Soak a dried leaf ten minutes before it goes on the grill and keep whatever sits on it wet — moisture is the only thing stopping it burning through. One leaf takes one grilling; the scent is spent after that.

Goes with

Miso Shiitake Negi Wagyu beef Hon-mirin Enoki

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