Gras-double (rumen tripe)

Gras-double

What it is

The rumen is the first and largest of the four stomachs, and it leaves the tripier already blanched — flat, smooth, ivory, half-cooked before you have paid for it. Lyon cuts it into hand-sized flaps for tablier de sapeur, the crumbed square named for a leather apron and, the story goes, for Marshal de Castellane, military governor of the city and an unembarrassed eater of tripe.

In the kitchen

Even blanched it wants a good hour of simmering before anything else happens to it. Then marinate the flaps a few hours in white wine, mustard and lemon before crumbing — that acid is what stops the finished square tasting of the byre.

Goes with

Dijon mustard Egg Parsley Shallot White wine vinegar Cornichon Lemon Butter

Same species

Abura-kasu Amourettes (spinal marrow) Spider steak Bastourma Flank steak Beef

Also used with

Rue

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