Copius
Glass eel, drawn for Copius

Glass eel

Civelle (pibale)

Latin nameAnguilla anguilla
FamilyFish & seafood
OriginGironde & Adour estuaries
Season (France)December – March
FlavourDelicate · Mild · Marine
Typical price (France)400–1000 €/kg

What it is

They reach the Gironde and the Adour after two or three years drifting from the Sargasso, transparent and about six centimetres long, and the fishery now runs on quota with every kilo traced because the species is critically endangered. Prices climbed high enough that Spain answered with gulas - surimi threads with two ink dots for eyes - now more common on Spanish tables than the fish.

In the kitchen

Seconds, not minutes: garlic and chilli warmed in olive oil, the civelles tipped in, a count of twenty, straight to the table in the earthenware they cooked in. They carry almost no flavour of their own, so the oil and the garlic are the dish.

Goes with

Garlic Olive oil Chili pepper Parsley Egg Espelette pepper Lemon

Same species

Smoked eel Eel

In season alongside

Cod Tiger pufferfish (torafugu) Haddock Hake John Dory Oyster mushroom

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