Chicken tail (bonjiri) ✦

Croupion de volaille (bonjiri)

What it is

One per bird: the fatty nub above the vent that English calls the parson’s nose and yakitori counters call bonjiri, or sankaku, the triangle. Inside sits the preen gland the bird draws its feather oil from, a hard bitter pellet that has to come out before the skewer meets the fire.

In the kitchen

Cut out the two small oil sacs at the base, then grill it slowly and away from the flames — it renders so much fat that a hot grill flares and coats it in soot. A quarter-hour at the cool end, finished over the coals, is the whole method.

Goes with

Salt Sansho pepper Yuzu kosho Negi Koikuchi shoyu Shichimi togarashi Lemon

Same species

Egg white powder (albumin) Bresse chicken Capon Chicken Rooster Cockscomb

Something wrong here, or missing? Tell us