Japanese tilefish (amadai) ◆

Tile du Japon (amadai)

What it is

In Kyoto this fish is called guji, and the best of it comes from Wakasa Bay a day's carry away, salted on the quay so that it arrives in condition — the same salt-road logic that gave Kyoto its mackerel. It is the one fish a Japanese kitchen buys for the scales rather than in spite of them.

In the kitchen

Matsukasa-yaki: leave the scales on, hold the skin to a fierce heat while basting it with smoking oil, and the scales lift and set into crisp shingles. Salt it lightly the night before so the very soft flesh firms enough to survive the handling.

Goes with

Salt Junmai sake Sudachi Kombu Hon-mirin Wasabi Negi Yuzu

In season alongside

Pauillac lamb Lily bulb Haddock Olive flounder (hirame) John Dory Lemon sole

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