Agretti

Barbe de moine

What it is

Before it was a vegetable it was industry: the ash of this plant runs to roughly a third soda, and Murano glassmakers bought it by the ton for the clarity of their cristallo. Synthetic soda killed the trade in the nineteenth century and left behind a six-week spring salad.

In the kitchen

Pull the pink root off every strand — it stays woody however long you cook it. Ninety seconds in unsalted boiling water, then oil and lemon: the plant brings its own salt and will over-season anything you add it to.

Goes with

Olive oil Lemon Garlic Anchovy Egg Chili pepper

In season alongside

Green almond Nopal Nozawana-zuke Orach Rhubarb Samphire

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